A new skin cream that packs retinol and a tiny peptide called pentapeptide‑18 inside tiny fat particles (lipid nanocarriers) was tested. The cream stayed stable at room temperature and, when used by volunteers, it cut down oily skin (helpful for acne) and reduced facial wrinkles. Importantly, the nanocarriers also softened the usual irritation that retinol can cause.

The use of lipid nanocarriers as components of cosmetic formulations may provide an opportunity to fully exploit the beneficial properties of pentapeptide-18 and retinol while reducing the undesirable effects that occur during retinoid therapy. This study aimed to evaluate the effectiveness of semi-solid formulations enriched with retinol and oligopeptide-loaded lipid nanocarriers. Solid lipid nanoparticles were produced using a high-shear homogenization method. The work included physicochemical characterization of the cosmetic products, and evaluation of their stability as well as their efficacy. The resulting semi-solid preparations were determined to be stable regardless of their storage temperature. No effect of the presence of lipid nanoparticles on the shelf-life stability of the cosmetic products was observed. A temperature of 25 °C was considered the recommended storage temperature for the tested semi-solid formulations. Beneficial effects of the cosmetic products were proven (in vivo study on volunteers), i.e., a significant reduction in the level of sebum secretion (anti-acne therapy) and a decrease in the number of facial wrinkles (anti-aging therapy). In addition, the protective properties of the lipid nanoparticles themselves against the skin were confirmed, reducing the irritating effect of retinol that is usually the case with classic retinoid therapies.