Development of a LC-MS/MS method to monitor palmitoyl peptides content in anti-wrinkle cosmetics.
Chirita. Raluca-Ioana RI; Chaimbault. Patrick P; Archambault. Jean-Christophe JC; Robert. Isabelle I; Elfakir. Claire C
Key Findings
- A reliable LC‑MS/MS method was developed for detecting and quantifying palmitoyl peptides in cosmetics.
- Pal‑GHK was validated as an effective internal standard for measuring pal‑KTTKS levels.
- The method demonstrated good specificity, linearity, accuracy, precision, and low limits of quantification.
- Formulation differences were shown to influence the availability of the active peptide in anti‑wrinkle creams.
Practical Outcomes
- For biohackers and DIY enthusiasts, this work suggests that it is possible to verify the actual peptide content of anti‑aging creams, but doing so requires specialized lab equipment and expertise. It doesn’t change how you use the product, but it could help you choose brands that truly contain the claimed amount of active peptide.
Summary
The study created a lab test (LC‑MS/MS) that can accurately measure how much anti‑wrinkle peptide (pal‑KTTKS) is in a cream, using a related peptide (pal‑GHK) as a reference. It shows the test works well and can tell if the cream’s formula affects how much of the active peptide is actually present.
Abstract
Palmitoyl peptides are anti-aging agents widely used in cosmetics. This article describes the development of a LC-MS/MS analytical procedure that allows, after a liquid-liquid extraction procedure, their unambiguous detection in cosmetic formulation. MS/MS detection is shown to be specific regarding placebo formulations. Limits of quantification, linearity, accuracy and precision of the method were estimated. The results presented show that palmitoyl peptides can be thus reliably assayed. The palmitoylated pentapeptide palmitoyl-lysyl-threonyl-threonyl-lysyl-serine (pal-KTTKS) was assayed in anti-wrinkle creams using palmitoyl-glycyl-histidyl-lysine (pal-GHK) as internal standard. From the results obtained, the influence of the formulation on pal-KTTKS availability is evidenced.
Study Information
pubmed
2009
2009-03-20T00:00:00.000Z
10.1016/j.aca.2009.03.015
25
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