The study tested a new skin-friendly gel that can hold active peptides. While the gel is safe for cells and has good mechanical properties, it only let one peptide (Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide‑2) pass through the skin. The other peptide we care about, Palmitoyl‑tripeptide‑5, barely crossed the skin barrier.

Supramolecular and biocompatible hydrogels with a tunable pH ranging from 5.5 to 7.6 lead to a wide variety of formulations useful for many different topical applications compatible with the skin pH. An in vitro viability/cytotoxicity test of the gel components demonstrated that they are non-toxic, as the cells continue to proliferate after 48 h. An analysis of the mechanical properties demonstrates that the hydrogels have moderate strength and an excellent linear viscoelastic range with the absence of a proper breaking point, confirmed with thixotropy experiments. Two cosmetic active peptides (Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 and Palmitoyl tripeptide-5) were successfully added to the hydrogels and their transdermal permeation was analysed with Franz diffusion cells. The liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) analyses of the withdrawn samples from the receiving solutions showed that Trifluoroacetyl tripeptide-2 permeated in a considerable amount while almost no transdermal permeation of Palmitoyl tripeptide-5 was observed.